Breadboard Ends // How I Chose to Do It // How-To Woodworking
Before we get to talking breadboard ends, you may be wondering what I’ve been up to lately in the shop? Well, if you missed it, go check out my Garage storage solution video that was posted two weeks ago. If you are looking to maximize space in a small shop, that may be helpful to you.
I’ve also been working on this X style farmhouse table for a while now. The client chose Cedar for this table and we’ve had a lot of issue sourcing it in my location but I was finally able to get what I needed to keep the project moving forward. Up to this point, I’ve joined the table top together and here I’m constructing the legs To fill all the gaps, cracks and voids, I’m using the StarBond CA glue. They offer a wide range of thicknesses along with colors to meet your project needs. I found myself using a lot of the Medium-Thick Brown and the Thick Gap Filler clear. The process I followed was to apply in layers and then use the Accelerator spray in between each layer until I built up to the table surface. If you are interested in trying it out, use the link and discount code.
StarBond Adhesives: https://www.starbond.com/?rfsn=5545157.69ed40
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Let’s talk about the bread board end installation. Adding a breadboard end may seem like a simple enough task and it can be, as long as you understand how the wood can potentially move. Let’s define the pieces first so that you can follow the process easier. We have the table side and the breadboard side. The table side mortises are cut with the Festool domino and they are cut so the dominos fit snuggly. For the breadboard side the middle 2 mortises are cut to fit snug and the rest of the outside mortises are cut to allow the fixed dominos on the table side, to move side to side. All of the table side mortises receive glue. The two center mortises on the breadboard side will also receive glue. Many have found it helpful to label each side with loose vs. tight and glue vs. no glue. As a side note i was a little concerned by the short dominos but either way it was this or purchase the domino XL and longer dominos so I went with the longest i had and tested with my body weight after the fact. I don’t anyone will eat a plate over 160 pounds. The point to this technique is that the wood movement will occur from the inside out so those two center dominos will not be affected by movement.
To help add stability to the breadboard I’ll add a dowel into the dominos on the breadboard side. I’ve drilled the holes using a bit just ever so slightly larger so there is some space down inside the domino within the breadboard. I only apply glue to the top portion of the dowel. The bottom portion will insert below the breadboard and into the domino where it can move freely without glue.
Comment below if you have any questions. Before folks comment about spacing for the hole in the domino, yes, the domino will flex and move and this is where I decided to apply my risk. If you feel more comfortable making a larger hole and applying your risk towards the lack of bread board stability go ahead and pull your breadboard back off prior to adding glue and enlarge the hole in the domino.
With that the breadboards were attached!
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►TOOLS & Materials USED:
Fast Cap Flush Mount Drill bit: https://amzn.to/2NXHBo1
Milwaukee 12" sliding miter saw: https://amzn.to/2LuXZuw
Milwaukee Drill/Driver M18 with One Key (1 left!): https://amzn.to/30bjdll
Festool Domino DF 500 Q-Set: https://amzn.to/2LoG4rU
Wood Is Good Mallet 30oz: https://amzn.to/3mlRNEI
Auto-Line Drill Guide: https://www.woodpeck.com/auto-line-drill-guide.html
Gyokucho Flush Trim Saw: https://amzn.to/34EVZYn
The Coldest Water Bottle: https://thecoldestwater.com/?ref=woodshaped
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